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This marks pumpkin season and my favourite time of the year, especially for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of fall. This Northwest Indian stir-fry is a regular in my kitchen, and the combination of fresh ginger, chili and jaggery gives it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, basmati and clarified butter, which give enhanced taste to the layers of rice and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a rich, comforting, single-pot biryani? For convenience, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element in advance and assemble everything on the day you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the gravy. Melt the ghee in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, add the cumin, bay and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Stir in the onion slices and cook, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until tender. Once onions begin caramelizing, transfer half of them to a plate and reserve (for later use during the layering).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, fry for a minute, then mix in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Turn down to a gentle flame, stir in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then fry for several minutes. Pour in the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to make sure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then place it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and salt. Bring to a boil, cook for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then strain.

To build the layered dish, place a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Spoon one portion the vegetable curry, then top that with some the rice. Sprinkle half the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the reserved fried onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then spoon on the remaining rice. Finish with the rest of ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, cover with the lid, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Take out of the heat, leave to rest, still covered, for several minutes, then lift off the cover and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Indian word "pickling style" describes flavouring a preparation using preserving spices, and the combination contains mustard, fennel, fenugreek, cumin seeds, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also appears in various types of curries and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then set aside. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the ground spices and the hing, and sauté, mixing, for a few seconds. Mix in the ginger, cook for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add 50ml water to the pan, season with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, reduce the heat, and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Add the palm sugar, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the dried mango, stir well and present hot with flatbreads or leavened bread.